Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
